Monday, August 19, 1996

Thrift stores and vintage clothing stores such as Muskrat Vintage Clothing Store, Salvation Army, Salvation Navy and Aaardvarks offer bargain basement deals for the discriminating shopper.By Lena Hicks

Summer Bruin Contributor

Upon entering Muskrat Vintage Clothing Store, located on 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica, the stale smell of old polyester permeates the air. But once beyond the initial odor, the assortment of blouses, sweaters, and button-up shirts on the $5 rack shift the senses and open eyes to bargains.

"I get people in here who stay for four or five hours ... people usually stay and go through everything," Muskrat store owner Tom Kampas said.

Fashionable garb and classic styles, at inexpensive prices, draw many to thrift and vintage stores. Some argue, however, that differences between thrift and vintage exist.

Vintage stores have been popular for the last 20 years, Kampas said. He attributes their popularity to the discount prices given to quality items. Muskrat sells a vintage Lilli Ann blazer for $125, compared to a $300 price tag attached to a similar blazer at an expensive boutique.

"The high dollar store is going to be quadruple or more for the same stuff," Kampas said.

Kampas added that although similar in popularity, thrift and vintage stores differ in terms of price range, store organization and merchandise quality. "Vintage stores are basically private owned, and prices are higher ... We assort things so it's easier to find. We get better quality stuff," Kampas said. "You can't find all of these 1940s Joan Crawford blazers in thrift stores."

On the contrary, the Salvation Navy Thrift Store, located on Melrose Avenue, sells rare vintage items and still considers itself a thrift store.

"We call ourselves a thrift store because our prices are so inexpensive," Salvation Navy manager Pam Moomjean said.

Salvation Navy's Levi's start at $5 and go as high as $300 for the classic 1940s style, made out of indigo dye and hemp.

"They call them Big E's," Moomjean said, who revealed the trademark capitol "E" on the back pocket's red Levi tag. "Certain eras are worth more money because they are rare."

Although Big E's tend to be more costly, Moomjean explained that prices vary from item to item, so the customer can purchase stylish clothing without spending too much.

"We try to cater to the young kids who want to have the new look without paying an arm and a leg for it," she said.

Some believe that the quality of merchandise varies from store to store.

"What's the difference between Salvation Army and Salvation Navy? Salvation Army's clothing is donated and Salvation Navy buys its clothing," Moomjean said.

Salvation Army, created in 1865 through the International Religion and Charitable Movement, owns various thrift stores, including the location on 11th Street in Santa Monica. By obtaining merchandise through donations,customers of lower economic status have access to inexpensive clothing.

"I guess our goal is to help people out ... we are trying to give people, who are not as wealthy as others, something that's in good shape," store clerk Donell Norwood said.

Stores such as Muskrat and Salvation Navy do not receive their clothing from donation or other stores. Instead, stores owners select items from wholesalers and vintage warehouses throughout the country.

"The stuff I get aren't from garage sales, and I hand pick everything myself," Kampas said.

According to Moomjean, Salvation Navy owner Martin Fromer does not rely on other thrift stores for his merchandise. "No, he doesn't buy from other thrift stores. In fact, other store owners actually shop here ... because our prices are so cheap," she said.

Some people do not see any difference between thrift and vintage stores. "There is no difference ... it's the same ... I think vintage is a better way of saying it," salesperson Keith Respicio commented, standing behind the counter of Aaardvarks, also located on Melrose Avenue.

Aaardvarks, with clothing ranging from $2 to $1000, attracts many customers through its supply of 1950s style and other vintage clothing.

"The '50s look ­ that's a look that will never go out of style ... it's just like a fine wine. It gets better with age," Respicio said, who attributes the popularity of thrift and vintage stores to the rarity of their items which can not be found in mainstream clothing stores.

"You can't find a lot of these styles in (regular) stores," Respicio said. "It's not like we have 15 of the same shirt."

Because most of their clothing is second hand, thrift and vintage stores mark prices lower, based on the condition of the items. Merchandise is often washed or dry cleaned for sanitation.

"It's really nothing to worry about," Respicio said. "We wash everything."

Many feel that the low prices along with the excellent condition of the clothing play a primary role in attracting clientele.

"It's easier to express your individuality at a cheaper price ... girls can create the same look from a magazine for a cheaper price," Moomjean said.

Respicio agrees that thrift and vintage shopping is worthwhile. "I remember my mom used to tell me that she used to go get her bell bottoms from Good Will for $2!"

Many customers think that the satisfaction gained in thrift and vintage shopping is a unique one that regular store shopping lacks.

"It's cheaper and I can find what I want," shopper Farid Ansari said. "I feel guilty when I buy something expensive."

Trendy, fashion conscious juveniles are not the only ones intrigued by the original styles that thrift and vintage stores around the city have to offer. Older clientele satisfy their nostalgic appetites amongst the classic attire and inexpensive prices that make thrift and vintage stores so appealing.

"We come maybe twice a year because we find so many wonderful things," expressed customer Roberta Brookes, of Manhattan, New York, about Salvation Navy. She pulled a double breasted Don Louper blazer from the rack and held it up. "It keeps memories alive. When I look at this jacket, it reminds me of the 1940s and my mom."

Kampas commented that if shoppers save dollars on clothing, the remaining money can go towards other necessities. "What's the basic three? Food, clothing and shelter. If you save money on clothing, you can spend it on food, rent ... car payments," he said.

But even though its popularity lies in the cheap prices, the original styles, and the classics fashion, thrift and vintage shopping is a fetish that provides a sense of amusement for customers from various generations.

"It's like a treasure hunt," Moomjean said. "That's part of the fun, you know, digging for a treasure."